The Veggie Girl: Lake County celebrates pears

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Cinnamon Bartlett Pears from Yoxagoi Orchards in Kelseyville, Calif. Photo by Esther Oertel.

 

 



Sometimes it’s hard to tell if Bartlett pears made Lake County famous or the other way around. The histories of both are interwoven throughout the last century and more, resulting in a mutually beneficial agricultural tapestry that lives on today.


There are fewer pear orchards here now than there were some decades ago; even so, Lake County produces a respectable crop as the second-largest supplier of premium pears in the U.S.


Most farmers in Lake County were growing grain in the late 1800s and early 1900s when a few farmers planted pear orchards. Over time, pears became the crop of choice because of the higher profit margin they provided.


In 1885, Lake County apples and pears – and particularly the Bartlett pear – attracted a lot of attention at the New Orleans World’s Fair and an industry was born.


Dried Bartlett pears from Lake County were fondly referred to as “slabs of gold” and were considered by many to be the finest dried pears in the world. Prized in Europe, most were exported there until the market for them collapsed in the early 1920s.


Growers then began packing pears for the fresh market, and by the late 1920s the market was booming. Since then, the market for pears has waxed and waned, with the destruction and replanting of orchards dependent on the need for the crop.


A high of almost 8,000 acres of pears was reached in 1976, but since that time Lake County has lost roughly 50 percent of that acreage to other land uses, as well as the majority of its pear packing houses.


The industry survives, however, and pears are still very much part of our identity. Thousands throng to the Kelseyville Pear Festival each year (held yesterday and each September since 1991), where our past and present relationship with the pear is celebrated.

 

 

 

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Pears ripening on the tree in the U.C. Davis experimental pear grove at Yoxagoi Orchards in Kelseyville, Calif. Photo by Esther Oertel.

 

 


“Mountain pears,” as Lake County pears are called, are especially prized because of the taste that’s produced by the hot days and relatively cool nights prior to harvest. While our Bartlett pears may be the best known, numbers of other varieties are grown here, including the buttery, sweet Comice and the popular dessert pear, Bosc.


Pears, along with their relatives, apples and quince, are members of the rose family. Wild pears have grown in Asia and Europe since prehistoric times, and their cultivation can be traced back about 3,000 years on both continents. The Asian pear is a different species than its European counterpart, with firmer flesh and less sweetness.


One of the earliest written records of them comes from Homer, who called them “gifts of the gods.” They were a popular fruit in the ancient world, particularly prized by the Persians, Chinese, Greeks and Romans.


By medieval times, more than 200 varieties were being cultivated in Italy, and by the 17th century the French, inspired by King Louis XIV’s passion for produce, were growing more than 300 varieties. Now, more than 3,000 varieties exist worldwide. Some put that number as high as 5,000.


There are no native American varieties. Like the apple, the first American pears were raised from seed (via seeds that came from England to Massachusetts in 1629) so they will not breed true to variety. Hence, American pears have become more diverse than their European ancestors.


With their delicate flavor and elegant presentation, pears are often served in the European tradition with cheese and wine as a dessert course. A diversity of flavor and texture among pear varieties allows for an endless array of pairings. Matching complementary wine and cheese to pears is a delicious art.


Pears are a good source of vitamin C and copper, both of which are antioxidant nutrients that protect our cells from damage. As well, pears provide a healthy dose of vitamin K, which aids in healing and the clotting of blood when we’re injured. Studies also indicate that vitamin K guards against the loss of bone density that leads to osteoporosis.


Pears are rich in fiber, which aids in digestion, helps stabilize blood sugar and may aid in lowering blood cholesterol.


Most of the vitamin C in pears is concentrated in the skin, so it’s recommended that pears be eaten unpeeled.


Pears may be ripened at room temperature or in a paper bag to hasten the process. Once ripe, they should be stored in the fridge, but be sure to allow for good oxygen flow or they will degrade quickly. (Storing in plastic bags or restrictive spaces is not recommended.)


Interestingly, fully ripened pears provide the most antioxidants.


I love choosing recipes for my culinary classes featuring Lake County pears because their subtle but distinct flavors may be featured in salads, soups, main courses, and, of course, desserts. Recipes with pears as their centerpiece are especially sophisticated. Even dishes that are purposely rustic, such as some pear tarts and pizza with pears, have an air of elegance in their taste and presentation.


I’m especially excited this pear season as I’ll be teaching two classes featuring our local fruit: one at Chic Le Chef in Hidden Valley Lake on Sunday, Oct. 3, and the other the following Sunday, October 10, at The Kitchen Gallery in Lakeport. The menus will be different in each class.


For now I’ll leave you with an offering from last year’s class, a pizza featuring Lake County pears, caramelized onions, and prosciutto. Use your favorite crust, whether homemade or store bought, and if you prefer a vegetarian version, eliminate the prosciutto and add a bit of local goat cheese in its place. Enjoy!


Lake County pear pizza with caramelized onions and prosciutto


1½ tablespoon sweet butter

1 large onion, peeled and thinly sliced

½ teaspoon sugar

Prepared pizza crust to serve four

2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

2 medium sized ripe Lake County pears, such as Bartlett, cored and sliced

¼ cup chopped prosciutto

¼ cup grated fresh Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, coarsely chopped


Melt butter in large skillet. Add onions and cook over medium low heat, stirring frequently, for 25 minutes, or until onions are very soft and golden brown. Add sugar and cook for five minutes more.


Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Spread pizza crust on large baking sheet and top with mozzarella cheese, onions, pears, prosciutto and Parmesan cheese.


Bake for 10 minutes or until cheese is melted and crust is golden brown. Top with thyme and let cool slightly. Cut into wedges and serve. Makes four individual pizzas or a large one to serve four.

 

 

Esther Oertel, the "Veggie Girl," is a personal chef and culinary coach and is passionate about local produce. Oertel owns The SageCoach Personal Chef Service and teaches culinary classes at Chic Le Chef in Hidden Valley Lake, Calif., and The Kitchen Gallery in Lakeport, Calif. She welcomes your questions and comments; e-mail her at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..


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Locally grown Comice Pears at Yoxagoi Orchards in Kelseyville, Calif. Photo by Esther Oertel.
 

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