It’s hard to be in Lake County this weekend and not think of pears!
The local harvest is in full swing, and enthusiasts of the fruit descended upon Kelseyville Saturday for the 19th annual Kelseyville Pear Festival to taste and admire all manner of products celebrating them.
In light of the weekend’s pear-induced festivities, a second look at this prolific local crop is in order. What follows for your reading pleasure is the column from last year’s final weekend in September, tweaked just a bit and with a new recipe.
Now, sit back, relax, and enjoy a bit of history and lore with your fresh morning pear.
Sometimes it’s hard to tell if Bartlett pears made Lake County famous or the other way around. The histories of both are interwoven throughout the last century and more, resulting in a mutually beneficial agricultural tapestry that lives on today.
There are fewer pear orchards here now than there were some decades ago; even so, Lake County produces a respectable crop as the second largest supplier of premium pears in the U.S.
Most farmers in Lake County were growing grain in the late 1800s and early 1900s when a few farmers planted pear orchards. Over time, pears became the crop of choice because of the higher profit margin they provided.
In 1885, Lake County apples and pears – and particularly the Bartlett pear - attracted a lot of attention at the New Orleans World’s Fair and an industry was born.
Dried Bartlett pears from Lake County were fondly referred to as “slabs of gold” and were considered by many to be the finest dried pears in the world. Prized in Europe, most were exported there until the market for them collapsed in the early 1920s.
Growers then began packing pears for the fresh market, and by the late 1920s, the market was booming. Since then, the market for pears has waxed and waned, with the destruction and replanting of orchards based on the need for the crop.
A high of almost 8,000 acres of pears was reached in 1976, but since that time Lake County has lost roughly fifty per cent of that acreage to other land uses, as well as the majority of its pear packing houses.
The industry survives, however, and pears are still very much part of our identity. Thousands throng to the Kelseyville Pear Festival each year (held yesterday and each September since 1993), where our past and present relationship with the pear is celebrated.
“Mountain Pears,” as Lake County pears are called, are especially prized because of the taste that’s produced by the hot days and relatively cool nights prior to harvest. While our Bartlett pears may be the best known, numbers of other varieties are grown here, including the buttery, sweet Comice and the popular dessert pear, Bosc.
Pears, along with their relatives, apples and quince, are members of the rose family.
Wild pears have grown in Asia and Europe since prehistoric times, and their cultivation can be traced back about 3,000 years on both continents.
The Asian pear is a different species than its European counterpart, with firmer flesh and less sweetness.
One of the earliest written records of them comes from Homer, who called them “gifts of the gods.” They were a popular fruit in the ancient world, particularly prized by the Persians, Chinese, Greeks and Romans.
By medieval times, more than 200 varieties were being cultivated in Italy, and by the 17th century the French, inspired by King Louis XIV’s passion for produce, were growing more than 300 varieties. Now, more than 3,000 varieties exist worldwide. Some put that number as high as 5,000.
There are no native American varieties. Like the apple, the first American pears were raised from seed (via seeds that came from England to Massachusetts in 1629) so they will not breed true to variety. Hence, American pears have become more diverse than their European ancestors.
With their delicate flavor and elegant presentation, pears are often served in the European tradition with cheese and wine as a dessert course.
A diversity of flavor and texture among pear varieties allows for an endless array of pairings. Matching complementary wine and cheese to pears is a delicious art.
Pears are a good source of vitamin C and copper, both of which are antioxidant nutrients that protect our cells from damage.
As well, pears provide a healthy dose of vitamin K, which aids in healing and the clotting of blood when we’re injured.
Studies also indicate that vitamin K guards against the loss of bone density that leads to osteoporosis.
Pears are rich in fiber, which aides in digestion, helps stabilize blood sugar, and may aid in lowering blood cholesterol.
Most of the vitamin C in pears is concentrated in the skin, so it’s recommended that pears be eaten unpeeled.
Pears may be ripened at room temperature or in a paper bag to hasten the process. Once ripe, they should be stored in the fridge, but be sure to allow for good oxygen flow or they will degrade quickly. (Storing in plastic bags or restrictive spaces is not recommended.)
Interestingly, fully ripened pears provide the most antioxidants.
I love choosing recipes for pears because their subtle but distinct flavors may be featured in salads, soups, main courses, and, of course, desserts. Recipes with pears as their centerpiece are especially sophisticated. Even dishes that are purposely rustic, such as some pear tarts and pizza with pears, have an air of elegance in their taste and presentation.
When this column ran last year, I offered a recipe from one of my culinary classes celebrating Lake County pears, a pizza featuring slices of them with caramelized onions and prosciutto.
This year, my recipe offering is pear chutney, one developed especially for the organic pears grown at Montesol Ranch on Mount St. Helena’s northern slope. I gave away free samples of it at Hardester’s Market in Middletown on Friday evening.
This chutney is fantastic when paired with pork, chicken, turkey or smoked meats. Try it on a sandwich with creamy, mild cheese or a meat of your choice, or top crackers with it over mild local goat cheese or cream cheese for an appetizer.
Vegetarians can enjoy it paired with hearty brown rice or bulgur wheat.
If you missed last year’s column and would like my pear pizza recipe, you can find it here: http://lakeconews.com/content/view/16121/919/.
Bon appétit!
Pear chutney
2 pears, peeled and diced in ½ inch chunks (about 2 to 2 ½ cups)
1 medium shallot, peeled and finely diced
½ inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ cup diced dried pineapple
1 tablespoon lemon zest (from about 1 ½ lemons)
¼ cup fresh lemon juice (from about 1 ½ lemons)
¼ teaspoon dried chili flakes (more or less to taste)
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
¼ cup finely chopped scallions, green and white parts (about 1 – 2 scallions)
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro (leaves from about 20 sprigs)
Freshly grated nutmeg, about ½ nut
½ teaspoon salt
Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Sauté shallots, ginger, and garlic until tender and fragrant, three to five minutes.
Add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low. Continue cooking for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until pears are tender but not mushy.
Chutney can be made one to two days in advance and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.
Makes about 1½ cups.
Recipe by Esther Oertel.
Esther Oertel, the “Veggie Girl,” is a culinary coach and educator and is passionate about local produce. Oertel teaches culinary classes at Chic Le Chef in Hidden Valley Lake, Calif., and The Kitchen Gallery in Lakeport, Calif., and gives private cooking lessons. She welcomes your questions and comments; e-mail her at
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